History of cosmetics

Cosmetics have a long and colourful history and have been used for thousands of years. Palettes containing traces of mixed pigments have been discovered that are around 100.000 years old. These were probably used for cave art and body decoration.

The ancient Egyptians used scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin, as well as to protect it from the sun and wind. They even used oils and ointments to mask body odours. Heavy eye make-up was also a common beauty statement. Ancient Egyptians thought it offered protection from evil spirits and improved eyesight too.

As far back as 3000 BC, people living in present-day Turkey used creams made of animal fat to soothe the skin. The ancient Greeks applied white lead to their faces to create a pale look which was fashionable at the time. They also painted their lips with a paste made of iron oxide or ochre mixed with olive oil. Kohl was used for eye shadow and to connect the eyebrows (the unibrow was considered a beautiful feature).

In ancient times Chinese people stained their fingernails with colours to represent social class. Soon after, they began using rouge to colour their lips and rice powder to make their faces white. The ancient Romans made their skin paler using chalk powder, white lead and a cream made of animal fat, starch and tin oxide.

In parts of North Africa, the Arabian Peninsula and South Asia, henna became popular as a hair dye and for painting complex designs on hands and feet from around 300-400 AD.

Even the seafaring Vikings were at it. Both men and women used make-up, including kohl for the eyes. They also spent time grooming their hair and beards, and bathed weekly, which was unusual at the time.

In the Middle Ages, the use of cosmetics spread across Europe. Pale skin was still considered attractive, with lead, chalk or flour used to lighten it. Some people even used bloodletting to try and lighten their skin. Lipstick and rouge were associated with women of ‘bad character’ such as prostitutes. Church officials were known to proclaim that cosmetics were only used by heathens and Satan worshippers!

Elizabeth I of England was famous for her red hair and pale complexion, which she enhanced using white lead and vinegar. Many women made tremendous efforts to look like her, using hair dye to try and match her hair colour. Soon after, the aristocracies of England and France became obsessed by their cosmetic regimes. Pale skin, rouge and wigs were a must, and the application of beauty spots became widespread. The location of the spot was supposed to represent a particular aspect of an individual’s personality!

The start of the twentieth century saw the birth of the modern cosmetics industry. From around 1910, the world of entertainment played an important role in making cosmetics fashionable. The trend began with ballet and theatre stars, and later Hollywood actors, where icons such as Helena Rubinstein and Max Factor began their careers as make-up artists. As knowledge increased and standards were introduced, dangerous ingredients like tin oxide, white lead and arsenic rapidly stopped being used.