While some people assume that cosmetic products are a recent invention, discoveries of the use of cosmetics go back thousands of years.
Remains of palettes estimated to be around 100.000 years old have been discovered that contain traces of mixed pigments. These were most likely used for cave art and body decoration, while the Neanderthals even used body adornment to make statements of personality.
Much later on, the ancient Egyptians used scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin, protect it from the sun and wind, and even to mask body odours. Heavy make-up around the eyes also became common in ancient Egypt as a beauty statement, as well as to offer protection from evil spirits and improve eye-sight!
Discoveries show that people living in present-day Turkey used creams made of animal fat to soothe the skin as far back as 3000 BC, and the ancient Greeks applied white toxic lead to their face to obtain the pale look that was all-the-rage. The Greeks also painted their lips with a paste made of iron oxide or ochre mixed with olive oil, and used kohl for eye shadow and to connect the eyebrows (the unibrow was considered a beautiful feature!).
Still back in ancient times, Chinese people stained their fingernails with colours to represent a social class. Soon after, they began using rouge for lips and rice powder to make their faces white. Also the ancient Romans made their skin paler by using chalk powder, white lead and a cream made of animal fat, starch and tin oxide.
Moving into the first millennium AD, henna became popular as hair dye and for painting complex designs on hands and feet around 300-400 AD in parts of North Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and South Asia.
Even the sea-faring Vikings were at it! Both men and women used make-up, such as kohl for the eyes, while much attention was paid to grooming of hair and beards and weekly bathing, which was unusual at the time.
In the Middle Ages, cosmetics usage spread across Europe, to the chagrin of the church. Pale skin was still deemed attractive, so lead, chalk or flour was employed. Some people would even engage in bloodletting in the hope of lightening their skin. Lipstick and rouge were seen as reserved for women of “bad character” such as prostitutes, and church officials were known to proclaim that cosmetics were only used by heathens and Satan worshippers!
Elizabeth I of England was famous for her red hair and pale beauty, which she obtained by using white lead and vinegar. Many women made tremendous efforts to look like her, using hair dye to attain the same hair colour as her. Soon after, the aristocracies of England and France became obsessed by their cosmetic regime. Pale skin, rouge and wigs were a must and the application of beauty spots became widespread, with the exact location of the spot being seen to represent a particular aspect of an individual’s personality!
The rise of an actual cosmetics industry took off at the start of the 20th century. In the very early 1900s, make-up was not yet in wide use, except for face whitening for which arsenic was often used! Pale skin was namely associated with wealth as rich people did not have to spend time outdoors tending to fields. The entertainment industry played a major role in making cosmetics fashionable as of around 1910, first through famous ballet and theatre stars, and later Hollywood, where icons of our industry such as Helena Rubinstein and Max Factor began their careers as make-up artists.
Fast forward to the present day, and thankfully, tin oxide, white lead, arsenic and bloodletting for cosmetics purposes remain a thing of the past! Instead, we now have thousands of products, ranging from sun care, oral care, skin care, hair care, body care, and make-up to perfume, each of which is tested extensively for safety before entering the market, based on strict EU laws.
Soaps, antiperspirants, deodorants, body washes, shower gels, body lotions, scrubs, oils
2001
21st century
Cosmetic patches as delivery systems; increased adoption of organic and natural products; science advances sweat management with antiperspirants with large inorganic polymers
1990
1990-2000
Technology developed using corn starch micro-spheres, which release fragrances upon coming into contact with sweat, to prolong antiperspirants' effects; body washes deliver moisture to dry skin
1980
1980-90
Invention of liquid antibacterial hand soap and alcohol-based hand-sanitisers
1970
1970-80
Silicon's unique properties are recognised and harnessed in antiperspirant products
1948
1948
The first antibacterial bar soap introduced synthetic antibacterial agents that were more effective than alcohol and at lower concentrations
1916
1916
Scientific research by Arthur W. Stillians demonstrates aluminium salts serve as effective antiperspirants
1888
1888
Invention of a waxy cream to prevent the development of underarm malodour
Natural, mineral based cosmetics offer full-but-light coverage; foundations contain skin-clearing benefits; research proves link between physical appearance and well-being; new products adapt to personal features
1990
1990-2000
Electrostatic sprays introduced, enabling uniform application of make-up; pigments (photochromic) are used to create light-reflecting make-up; silicon micro-fibres begin to be used in foundation
1970
1970-90
Shiny shell (nacré) pigments, formed from a mica base covered in a transparent layer of titanium dioxide, are used in eye shadow
1958
1958
Mascara wands are introduced, eliminating harsh brushes
1949
1949
Invention of the first kiss-proof lipstick
1932
1932
The first pigmented and shiny varnishes are developed
1920
1920
Ingredients derived from petrochemicals create an innovative revolution in makeup formulae. Bright colours become popular and foundations perfectly match skin
1915
1915
The portable metal lipstick container (that we still know today) is first sold
1913
1913
Invention of the modern form of mascara, based on coal dust mixed with Vaseline
1873
1873
Invention of the first lead-free makeup, used primarily in theatre
Particles containing emulsions improve the delivery of active ingredients and enable the use of natural and organic substances as ingredients; anti-ageing technology uses hair keratin to repair and rebuild ageing hair structures
1990
1990-2000
Ammonia-free tone colourants are introduced after intensive research enables formation of colour pigments similar to the natural hair pigments
1980
1980-90
CFC-free hairsprays (to stop ozone depletion) introduced: first 2-in-1 shampoo based on silicones
1970
1970-80
Introduction of first conditioning shampoos (containing cationic actives to cling to and "repair" hair); molecular research allows for advancements in hair treatments and colourants
1955
1955
Invention of the first hairspray, made by Robert Abplanalp's invention of the aerosol can
1940
1940-50
Patents are awarded for the use of thiols in hair cold-waving; first home hair-colouring product introduced
1930
1930
Dr. John Breck develops pH-balanced hair-soap; zinc pyrithione is synthesised to fight dandruff
1920
1920-30
First liquid shampoo introduced; invention of hair products for men
1906
1906-07
Karl Nessler develops a system to perm hair; French chemist Eugene Schueller invents synthetic hair dye
1898
1898-1900
Hans Schwartzkopf develops a water-soluble shampoo; perfumer Edouard Pinaud develops the first modern hair conditioner
1867
1867
Hydrogen peroxide is introduced as "water from the golden fountain of youth", because it bleaches hair quickly
Toothpastes, mouthwashes, certain flosses, other pastes & creams
2001
21st century
New understanding of plaque as a three-dimensional biofilm is enabling development of a new generation of oral hygiene products to fight dental plaque
1980
1980-90
Oral care products with antibacterial activities are clinically proven to help fight gum problems
1960
1960-70
First use of fluoride to fight tooth decay; Harald Löe demonstrates that a new compound (chlorhexidine) can prevent the build-up of dental plaque - it is now used in many mouthwashes
1945
1945
An ingredient to improve the taste of toothpaste (sodium lauryl sulphate) replaces soap
1898
1898
Patent awarded for dental floss
1892
1892
Invention of the collapsible toothpaste tube and introduction of the first mouthwash
1815
1815
Levi Spear Palmy recommends the use of silk for dental care
1780
1780
England's William Addis is credited with creating the first mass-produced toothbrush
Major improvements in analytical methods allow better knowledge of natural ingredients
1991
1991
Nobel Prize-winning discovery that a major part of our genetic code is devoted to the sense of smell, and therefore fragrances smell differently depending on a person's genetic "body odour profile"
1970
1970-80
Development of synthetic musk compounds (polycyclic musks)
1960
1960-70
Gas chromatography allows improved identification and analysis of materials present in natural substances
1950
1950-60
Development of new molecules (for example hedione) creates new families of perfumes
1921
1921
Introduction of the first fashion house perfume using aldehydes in larger proportions
1900
1900-14
Launch of the first perfumes for men; discovery of aldehydes and the ability to associate them with flower extracts opens the possibility of abstract perfumes, which don't replicate natural ingredients; launch of first mass-market perfume
1870
1870-80
First perfumes containing synthetic fragrances such as coumarine and vaniline
1850
1850-60
New raw materials synthesised from natural oils
1709
1709
First eau-de-cologne is created by Jean-Marie Farina
Organic and natural products gain popularity; stem cell research helps address skin at the molecular level, focusing on epidermal DNA protection
1990
1990-2000
Alpha hydroxy acids reverse photoageing damage and stimulate production of collagen and elastin; vitamins, ceramides and fatty acids are linked to improved skin "barrier"; retinol and retinyl esters improve anti-ageing benefits; Nano-emulsions transport Vitamin A; anti-blackhead patches are introduced
1980
1980-90
Study finds human skin can be damaged by free-radicals which leads to development of anti-oxidant treatments; liposome encapsulation technology and anti-ageing creams introduced
1970
1970-80
John F. Burke and Ioannis V. Yannas of Massachusetts Institute of Technology invent artificial - or reconstructed - skin with countless research applications
1965
1965
Discovery of liposomes as a delivery system for additive ingredients
1912
1912-1940
Casimir Funk develops the concept of vitamins, enabling synthesis of vitamin C; the structure of collagen is discovered
1900
1900
Isaac Lifstschütz patents the first emulsion "water-in-oil"
1889
1889
A viable way to extract glycerine, an effective water stabiliser, from the soap-making process opens the way to develop moisturisers
Sunscreens begin to contain a fixed ratio of UVB and UVA filters; products with light and transparent textures, spray-on sunscreens up to SPF50+, disappearing coloured products (for children) are introduced
2006
2006
EU provides recommendation on efficacy and labelling of sun care products, supported by Colipa
1990
1990-2000
Sunscreen protection levels are enhanced by use of new UVA filters and nano-pigments
1970
1970-80
Scientists discover certain esters, enabling development of "water resistant" sunscreens
1950
1950-1970
"The Tanning Years" when the damaging effects of UV rays were not known; 6 organic UVB filters become available; Franz Greiter introduces the "Sun Protection Factor"
1936
1936
Eugene Schueller invents first sunscreen; mass-marketing shortly follows in USA, Australia, Germany & France
1932
1932
The international Commission on Illumination determines UV rays should be categorised into UVC, UVB and UVA
1928
1928
UVB rays identified as potentially carcinogenic
1921
1921-1927
Complete sunburn-causing UV spectrum is identified
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